Відео

Adobe Illustrator...I wouldn't necessarily recommend it, I'm just familiar with it from my graphic design days...there my be free alternatives, do a search for free vector drawing software

for sure...was justing using some I already had on hand

Sorry no, they didn't give me any discount codes or purchasing links...you just have to get a quote through their website.

@diyfiberlaser got it. Also I would love your thoughts on something. How cam I contact you? Email?

Thanks! Another commenter also mentioned that….now that I know, I will make the fix

i think its so you can use the mounting plate for passive cooling

You would have to get a quote from Leadshine. I don't know the approximate cost.

Thanks for all of your helpful feedback! Your comments make me want to go to school for this…I’d love to learn more about machine control and design. I should research if there are any online courses that I could take from home. As you pointed out, I lack knowledge in the estop, relay, contactor chain. The laser source unit is getting plugged into it’s own separate circuit (my garage has 3 separate 20A 240V circuits) and it has an estop integrated on the front. The motor drives will be getting contactors (as soon as they arrive) that are supposed to kill the power if there is torque overload with the drive’s STO function. I guess that wont prevent a crash, but just cut the power if there is one. If I understand correctly, the best solution would be to just have one contactor (wired to an estop) right after my main breaker, that can cut the power to the controller and motors? I’m not sure how to wire this. I can fix the daisy-chain ground wire…I was out of inputs on my terminal block…I think I need to add a separate terminal block so there is adequate space to make all of these connections. You very well could be right about the 5:1 reducers…I made a stupid mistake, I was going to first test the motors without them (I bought them just to have on hand just in case) I got ahead of myself and forgot to test, and now it will be a considerable amount of work to undo everything…ugggh. At this point, I think I’m just going to move ahead and see how the machine performs, then if they introduce too much backlash, I’ll start tearing everything apart. I’m not sure how much belt stretch will impact accuracy. This is my first time making a belt drive machine, so I didn’t so much have an accuracy goal, but instead am experimenting to see how accurate it can be. When we get to that point, I’ll have to do some test cuts with different top speeds and accelerations and see if it makes an impact. I’m not too concerned about thermal expansion…I don’t do production work, I’m only running my machines a few minutes to cut out a part or two at a time. Thanks again for your input…you give me a lot to think about!

I hear ya, that would be way more convenient! For all of my machines lately, I've been purposely not adding convenient power buttons as a safety measure, as I have 3 young boys that love to push whatever random buttons they come across. I also have my 240V outlets on the ceiling and leave everything unplugged when not in use, so hopefully it will be years before it would even be possible for them to turn on any equipment themselves.

@@diyfiberlaser Almost every main switch has a hole for a padlock so that no one can turn it on/off

@@LeoMGames_ oh really...yes, that's what I need : )

@@diyfiberlaser Ah I see. There should be many different designs for main switches which aren't that easy to turn on. You've definitely got the hard parts like wiring and layout figured out, looks really good. Personally like to build out actual electrical cabinets, because often they have optional cut-outs for (example) 120mm fans (good fans are dirt cheap), which if you put a filter on a magnetic square on the outside of the inlet it will keep your electronics cool (run better + longer lifetime) and the filter keeps everything mostly dust free. I do at least two of those filter/fan setups - one usually at the bottom blowing in, at the top blowing out. Many electronic parts are nowadays advertised as passive cooled but somehow they hold up way less long than with active cooling... Who would've thought

@@luke1811 The other commenter mention power switches with holes for a padlock, I could probably get one that requires a key as well...I need to do some more research on my options here. I'm planning on using the laser itself, to cut out metal panels for the lower enclosure...I will definitely add some holes for mounting fans on the rear side panels.

The wobble is because it was still on caster wheels as it was in progress. Laser safety glasses for my eyes, enclosure for the sparks, exhaust for the fumes, fire extinguisher nearby.

@@diyfiberlaser Only 5 minutes after I commented I saw your update video. I'm looking forward to your next improved build! Must be amazing to have a too like that at home

Thanks for your input...I'll have to check out Rittal...I always struggle with what to do for the electrical cabinet because the ones I find are always expensive, and I'm cheap. My last machine used a Ruida RDC6563F controller, so for me the XC3000S is a major upgrade in both terms of controller and software...I like everything I see about it so far...if I had to make a complaint about my experience so far, it would just be that the hand pendant labels are in Mandarin, so I'll have to pint out translated labels...pretty minor. I've yet to use a FSCut controller, so I'm not sure what advantages it brings over the cheaper Raytools one.

What laser head are you using?...some are designed to have more features when paired with their brand controller.

That's a great idea, I'll 3D print a cover....thanks for your input!

That's what I thought also at first...I hooked it up to a monitor and it's running Linux or something, so I looked at the user manual and it showed it hooked up to a Windows PC to run the front end software.

@@diyfiberlaser Oh ok. I guess I'll order one of those too. I just subscribed to your Patreon.

@@bigtoy302 Awesome...thanks for your support!

I don’t know. I didn’t consult with SkyFire on the wiring. My approach is overly simplified for my needs. From what I’ve seen in a more professional electrical cabinet, there would be the use of contactors and more breakers for individual components.

Thank you for your question, it is a great inspiration for us. Since every DIY enthusiast has different ideas about electrical layouts, following a fixed wiring diagram might take away the fun of DIY. However, to accommodate those who are not familiar with electrical components, we will launch modular DIY electrical components in 2025, making the process much easier

Probably depending on where you're located. It was not a big deal...my items were shipped via FedEx, they arrived just as any other package normally would, and then I received a bill from FedEx a couple weeks later to pay the import fees (was about 19% in my case)

We shipped ours via boat and import duties were included. 50 day delay, we need to make room for new tooling ,so this is no big deal.

Thank you for your suggestion. The 3D models involve many other electrical components, and without knowing the specific layout ideas of each DIY enthusiast, a definitive 3D model might only serve as a reference. For those not familiar with electrical principles, this could be a challenge. Therefore, we are considering a different approach to provide assistance. We will be shooting a video soon to demonstrate the specific installation methods of the laser components sold by Sky Fire. I believe this might be more user-friendly for all DIY enthusiasts, even for beginners.

thats a tapping arm. He talked about it in previous videos. Intended to get it earlier but it arrived after one of the projects he intended to use it. ua-cam.com/video/rcIqeiS9B_I/v-deo.htmlsi=1R4D_3d0XvDwuzQ3&t=303

Thanks...interesting, I'll have to give those a try

Thanks, several months of design went into it...luckily I've only come across a few small tweaks I'd make to the parts.

Let’s see how it turns out in the end…if there’s enough interest, that’s something I’d consider exploring

ua-cam.com/video/ojRP2vu1XdQ/v-deo.html

@@diyfiberlaser thanks man I just found your channel and it’s awesome!

Good point...I'll think about that next time

You're right, wont make a huge difference, this is not exactly a precision machine.

Ooops! You're right...I'll pay more attention to that next time. I'll probably just leave it...it shouldn't affect performance and I'm quite a bit further along on the machine, so taking it all apart would be a pain.

There are backlash compensation settings in the configuration software

Thanks, next time I will try that!

I was thinking he could mod the bracket design to incorporate a captive hardened steel pin that can drop in through the top and maybe a set screw through the side to keep things from turning.

@@degreeless_engineering Essentially a shoulder bolt haha. Not as precise but this is clearly not a precision machine; but either would be an improvement. Swapping the planetary gearboxes with belted reductions would be better for backlash too.

@@3dkiwi920 I've found that hardened steel dowel pins have tighter diameter tolerances than shoulder bolts, but you're right, if he used a 6mm shoulder bolt he might be able to save the bracket by installing an M5 threaded insert where the current threads are, assuming that's an M6 screw. I would think you'd want as much precision as possible. I don't have any experience with CNC stuff, can you make adjustments in the software to accommodate for backlash on specific axis?

Thanks, I appreciate all your feedback...let me see if I can source some proper shoulder bolts to replace them...I'm always learning new things thanks to you guys!

I can also add backlash compensation in the software, but that reminds me, I was going to test if the reducers are even needed...I ordered them to have on hand in the event that the 400w motors didn't have enough torque, but I forgot to test how they performed without them....hold please...I have some testing to do.

I don't know of any size limitations on the software, as far as I can tell you can configure it to be whatever size you machine travel is.

@@diyfiberlaser Thankyou.

ever increasing spans mean having to factor into mechanical design: gantry beams will deflect more/need to be stiffer under load. Longer the belt more opportunity for stretching etc.

@@EricBrummer Yeah, the mechanical stuff is easy to work out and isn't what I was worried about. I want to be able to make steel panels 1200 mm X 2400 mm in size with different designs on them for 'artsy' type garden dividers, fences and similar or larger type silhouette cut outs and pieces to weld together for statues.

I don't. I can't even justify having one of them...but it's fun.

crude engraving, like for a part number...they are primarily used for cutting

I've seen that...they use anchor fasteners to get the job done

❤❤ nice bro

That would be fun! I have a little manual 12" brake...and I agree, bending parts is fun! I don't know that I can justify a CNC brake, but I guess I can't really justify a laser either : )